Monday, January 28, 2013

Odor, Wrinkles, and Stoutness ... Oh My! Beauty Problems in 1907


We hear a lot about our society being beauty-obsessed, but upon reading through the issues of The Delineator from 1907, it became clear to me that this is not a new phenomenon.  I supposed I would have expected a strong emphasis on beauty in a women's magazine from over 100 years ago, but I have to admit I was surprised by the number of articles and ads to do with weight loss, as we tend to discuss obesity as a problem of today. 

Two of the major beauty issues of the day, judging by the number of products advertised and the number of articles written to address them, were wrinkles and weight.  I couldn't even begin to show the variety of ads for various lotions and creams purported to reduce wrinkles. 

A couple of articles written on the topics of wrinkles and weight by one particular contributor, Augusta Prescott, struck me with their directness. 

In her article from October 1907 called "The Woman With Wrinkles in Her Face," Ms. Prescott asserts, “Wrinkles make a woman look old.  They make her seem unpleasant.  They make her look sour, no matter how sweet she may feel.  They furrow her face and destroy its expression . . . Nobody likes wrinkles, nobody admires them; and it is safe to say that the woman who is afflicted with them is cheated out of a great deal of the admiration and the pleasure which would otherwise naturally be hers.“

Some suggested wrinkle remedies include: massage, using steamed cloths, application of cold cream, facial baths of sour milk, patting the skin with a cosmetic ball soaked in cold cream, using an electric or rubber roller.


Yikes! I almost ran to the mirror to see if I truly looked sour and unpleasant, since Ms. Prescott stated that at the age 30, women should be at their peak but usually aren't because their wrinkles become apparent. I suppose it's hopeless for all of us who are over 30 . . . of course, Ms. Prescott had not yet heard of Botox!  :)

Ms. Prescott also addressed the topic of weight with characteristic tact in her October 1907 article titled "The Woman Who Weighs Too Much": "The stout person, be she girl or matron, is to be pitied for she loses so much by being fat.  There is no beauty in flesh; neither is there any grace or loveliness in rolls of fat . . . ‘Don’t be fat’ is a good law for any woman.”

She suggested several exercises for reducing flesh, including this one in case you'd like to try it: "The walking exercise is one that does the fat woman lots of good.  She should put on a loose waist and a short skirt—and walk!  The trick is to exert the muscles as much as possible.  And this is done by clinching the fists as one walks and stepping violently."

Dr. Anna Galbraith wrote a running feature on medical issues called "The Care of the Woman."  Her topic in the August 1907 issue is obesity.  Being a doctor, she does offer some much more sound advice on losing weight - for example avoiding starchy ("Bread is a very dangerous food and should only be taken in small quantities.") and sugary foods, having frequent smaller meals, and eating lean meats. 
I had to laugh a little at this statement: "Too great variety must be avoided, and the number of courses must be limited, since variety alwasy increases the appetite.  For the same reason all spices, condiments and othe rarticles which sharpen the appetite much be avoided."  And I was really surprised to hear her recommendation of saccharin as a sugar substitute.  I had no idea it came into use as early as 1907, but on investigating its history, I found that it was even used by none other than Theodore Roosevelt.
Being "stout" wasn't the only problem women had with their figures.  They were quite concerned about being "filled out" in all the right places.  Check out these ads for products that improve the figure:


And my very favorite, the H&H Pneumatic Bust Form, which seems to be an air-pump of some sort that fills out the bust:


While wrinkles and weight get the most attention in 1907's Delineator, a couple of other products did catch my eye.  Like this hair switch, made from human hair, necessary for the elaborate hairstyles:


And more prevalent ads for deodorant (compared to 1906), a powder that was sprinkled on the dress shields worn inside the dress:


It doesn't seem that too much has changed in regard to women's interest in staying young and pretty.  And I guess I prefer some of the beauty ideals from a century ago.  Instead of trying to look like a Kardashian in 2013, I'd probably rather try to stay slender to look fabulous in clothes like this:






Thursday, January 24, 2013

"The Value of Rest" - Delineator 1907

Being a lady who likes her sleep (and rarely gets enough of it, having 3 children), the title of this article caught my attention - and the pictures kept me reading!


It was written by Ella Adelia Fletcher and appeared in the January 1907 issue of The Delineator.  Ms. Fletcher wrote a book titled The Philosophy of Rest and also wrote The Woman Beautiful and a very New Age sounding book called Law of the Rhythmic Breath: Teaching the Generation, Conservation, and Control of Vital Force.

It seems unreal to think of people in 1907 living fast-paced lives, but according to Ms. Fletcher they did: “This twentieth-century life has grown so full, so complicated, and so elaborate, we have so many interests and involve ourselves in such varied activities, that no days are ever long enough for the multiple engagements of business and pleasure which our speed-crazed generation attempts to crowd into twenty-four hours."


The “iniquitous habit of curtailing sleep is one of the maddest practices of this nerve-squandering age, for it invites an almost endless train of evils.”

The remainder of the article doesn't focus on the lack of sleep - instead Ms. Fletcher describes the effects of poor or inadequate sleep and makes recommendations for getting "perfect, restful sleep" which is "indespensable for the harmonious activity of the highly organized nervous system."
Some of the obstacles to getting good sleep:
  • "Want of fresh air in the bedroom . . . To have sufficient oxygen to supply the needs of life during the inactivity of sleep, you should feel a current of fresh air flowing gently over the face, for only moving air can remove the heavy carbon-dioxid (sic) constantly exhaled by the sleeper, and poisoning the air surrounding the bed."
  • Mental unrest - "Just as we relieve the body of its restricting clothes, so should the mind be undressed from the trammels of the day's activities and perplexities when we prepare for rest."  
  • Incorrect sleep position - "Rounded shoulders, spinal curvature, a cramped chest,--preventing a full breath,--flabby cheeks and wrinkled neck, with cramped limbs checking circulation, are just  a few of the evils which result from a careless posture during the hours of repose."

"To sleep upon the stomach with upraised arms strains the chest and makes breathing imperfect and difficult.  The position has the advantage of soothing pain in the region of the stomach and loins, and the stretching of the legs equalizes the blood circulation . . . Therefore, it is not a bad plan to lie thus for a few minutes' rest . . . but none should continuously lie thus."


"All postures with the arms thrown over the head are vicious during sleep because of the tension and stretching of shoulder and chest muscles; and the high-pillow habit is most unkind to the back."


"Now, when all is in order, waking to the new day is a delight.  We greet it with joyous exhiliration, armed, if need there be, with fresh courage to cope with its perplexities, and never-failing confidence in their ultimate conquest; and if pleasures are planned we meet them with the eager, happy anticipation that doubles all our enjoyment."

Well, all this talk of rest makes me sleepy.  Wonder what Ms. Fletcher, the scourge of the "speed-crazed" generation of 1907, would have to say about the sleep habits of today.  If she could only see my 3 a.m. trek to the baby's room to fall asleep on the guest bed holding a bottle-drinking baby.

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

New Year's Resolutions - Delineator 1937

Just started looking at the January 1937 issue of The Delineator and stumbled across this entertaining article:

"Resolved To Do Right By Myself: New Year Resolutions, With a Dash of Enlightened Selfishness, That Will Make a New Woman of You."


A sampling of the resolutions listed:
  • To teach my maid to lie with convincing charm so I can avoid dull callers and telephone conversations.
  • To denounce swing music as cacophonous tripe if I prefer sweet jazz and symphonies.
  • To make him take care of his own dog even if I must resort to a little well-timed carelessness in feeding the pooch.
  • To admire his hair-cut and his new suits, willy-nilly.
  • To make him stop talking about girth and baldness and do something about it.
  • To own at least one dress or negligee which makes me feel feminine, clinging, luxurious and slightly wicked.
  • To wear always, the kind of underwear I'd be proud to claim as my own after the train wreck - if any.
  • To pay real money for a foundation garment if my figger needs a lift.
  • To cancel all dates, neglect the family darning and go to bed at sunset as soon as my mirror shows I'm getting a "death and taxes" expression.
  • To take enough exercise so I won't look like a marshmallow.
  • To try to see the good points in my face, my figrue, my disposition, and quit worrying about the flaws I can't do anything about.
I have mastered some of these (neglecting the dog) and may adopt of few of them for myself.  They sound pretty sensible to me!

Saturday, December 22, 2012

The Delineator 1906 - Fashion and Features

In 1906, the issues of The Delineator were heavy on fashion as you might expect, being a women's magazine and being published by the Butterick company (they used it as a vehicle to sell their clothing patterns).  But it also covered other topics of interest to women at the time, including social issues (like child labor, for instance), housekeeping and cooking, health and beauty, parenting, and etiquette.

Some of the regular features that appeared in each issue in 1906:
  • "Fashions in New York"
  • "The Dress of Paris," usually with color illustrations.
  • A large section with fashion pictures for women and children, with clothing and accessories.  This section included Butterick pattern numbers.
  • "Some Heroines of Shakespeare" by their impersonators - written by a different actress each month about a Shakespeare character she portrayed on the stage.
  • A featured house plan with pictures of the interior and exterior.
  • Stories and pastimes for children.
  • Needlework patterns.
  • A Q&A column called "Good Looks" about skin care and beauty.
  • "The Observances of Society" - a column about etiquette with Q&A.
  • "Childhood" - a column about parenting, also with Q&A.
  • "The Newest Books"
  • "The Delineator's Campaign for Safe Food" - with articles discussing glucose, food colorings, etc.
  • "The Progress of a Housewife" - articles covered cooking with eggs, common kitchen utensils, making cakes, cleaning, etc.
  • Recipes, including one feature called "The Favorite Recipes of Famous People" that ran for several months.
  • Travel articles
  • "The Rights of Children" - column about child development that covered exercise, stretching, education, etc.
To start the fashion pictures, I have to include this image from an article defining the fashionable figure of 1906.  This figure is of course achieved with the aid of a corset.  "Its curves are more pronounced.  The bust line is higher and more prominent, while the waist tapers sharply downward under the arms, giving an effect of slenderness quite incredible . . . The sides of the corsets slant upward and outward from the belt in hour-glass fashion, and the same effect is seen in the spring of the hip.  The graceful curves thus secured are equally noticeable in the profile of the back."


Some of the fashions:



There were even patterns for robes and nightgowns.


I think I might like to return to the days when these were the bathing costumes.


And we can't forget about the accessories.  Shoes and hats, oh my . . .




Just to give you a sample of the types of advice offered in 1906, I'm copying some excerpts from two different columns.  The first is from the "Good Looks" column and includes a couple of questions from readers with answers from the columnist:

"Good Looks: A Regimen for the Stout"
Dear Dr. Rogers: I am a young girl of twenty and inclined to stoutness.  My hips are entirely too prominent and I fear that I am getting a double chin.  I eat very little fish and meat, preferring vegetables and dairy dishes, and I drink quite a quantity of cold water.  Do you think that by abstaining from bread I can reduce flesh?  I am rather tall and weigh one hundred and fifty pounds.  B.E.N.
With your height, you can afford to weigh one hundred and fifty pounds but you should not weigh any more.  Your diet is such as to increase your flesh.  You should avoid starchy foods, and most vegetables are starchy.  The old rule so often mentioned is to eat only the vegetables that grow above the ground and not those which grow in the ground.  Leave off eating bread with your meals and drinking water.  Do not drink milk or eat fats.  Possibly your frame is large, which causes the hips to seem out of proportion.  Those who have large hips make the mistake of lacing their corsets tightly.  That pushes down the flesh on the hips and exaggerates their size.

"Good Looks: The Effects of Massage"
A subscriber writes the following – There is so much said about massage for various defects, is there no danger for a beginner rubbing in more wrinkles than are rubbed out? 
Wrinkles are not easily rubbed in.  The skin is not wrinkled in that way.  It may be that one who does not understand what is to be accomplished and how to accomplish it, will not attain the desired results. Almost any manipulation of the skin and muscles with the fingers will improve the circulation.  It should always be borne in mind that the massaging to remove wrinkles is of a similar nature to that which would be employed to smooth the wrinkles out of a piece of silk.

And I was both fascinated and horrified, for reasons you will see, while reading this next column from January of 1906:

“Childhood: The Feeble-Minded Child” by Mrs. Theodore W. Birney, Honorary President of The National Congress of Mothers.  
To those whose children are blessed with full development of all their senses, may I beg that they will so train them that they shall feel a true sympathy for any among their companions who may be afflicted, and that they shall endeavor always to refrain from showing by word or look, that they are aware of any difference between themselves and their less fortunate associates.
As a rule, there may be said to be two classes of defectives: First, those that need scientific or institutional treatment, such as the feeble-minded, the blind and the deaf-mute; and, second, those whose education may, with some modifications, be conducted on lines similar to those of normal children, such as the dull or backward children and those whose hearing or sight is but partially impaired.
The term ‘feeble-minded’ or ‘backward’ is more acceptable to friends than idiot or imbecile.  Idiocy is a condition of arrested mental development. 
‘A high-grade imbecile is one who would be classed as normal, except that he occasionally betrays his feebleness by conspicuously foolish errors of judgment, or lack of common-sense, or weakness of will, or failure to comprehend common proprieties; and the so-called moral imbecile who only shows mental abnormality by a total lack of moral perception.’  Great progress has been made in the past fifty years in training the feeble-minded.  As Dr. Barr tells us in his book Mental Defectives, the first efforts were directed toward the idiotic or lowest grade of imbecile with the aim of arousing dormant faculties sufficiently to induce the habits of cleanliness and self-help.  The queer, the erratic, the eccentric, were scarcely recognized as abnormal any more than are those destitute of the moral sense, who are often accounted monsters of wickedness, “possessed of the devil,” rather than the moral imbeciles they really are.
The idiot is incapable of training except in the simplest matter of self-help.  The imbecile may, under training, become almost self-supporting, and does, under tutelage and direction, fairly creditable work in both industrial and mechanical arts.  Away from the compelling hand, without the constant stimulus of affectionate guardianship, his weak will and indolent nature would at once succumb.
A question often asked in schools for defectives is, ‘For what are you training the imbecile?  What place can be found for this child who never grows up?’  The reply, to quote an eminent authority is, ‘The Government is caring for the deaf-mute, the Indian and the negro; then why shall it not care for this race, which is at once more helpless and more aggressive, which is incapable of self-preservation, and fast becoming a peril to the nation?’  The unoccupied lands of the great West or the undeveloped portions of the Atlantic seaboard give free space and opportunity for permanent sequestration under happiest conditions. Colonized there under wisely ordered provisions, protected from society and society protected from him, safe from the temptations of a world which does not understand him any more than he understands it, the imbecile would be given the enjoyment of his freedom under law, and a true junior republic might be established for these grown-up children of the nation.
On that note, I will leave the year 1906 behind and see what changes might have come to The Delineator in 1907.


 










 

Friday, December 21, 2012

The Delineator 1906 - The Ads

I enjoyed looking at The Delineator so much when searching for Christmas items that I decided to go back and read through the earliest issues owned by Nashville Public Library.  For this post, I'll be using the January through June issues from 1906.  The Delineator has an interesting history, which I plan to cover in a later post.

The Delineator is a women's magazine, so it's hard to say what is more prominent - the fashion or the ads.  Being from 1906, the ads are so much fun, I think I'll start with those.

The first thing that surprised me was the number of ads for brands that we would still recognize today.  For example: Van Camp's Pork and Beans, Campbell's Soup, Domino Sugar, Nabisco, Lea & Perrins' Worcestershire Sauce, Palmolive, Gilette Safety Razors, Bissell Carpet Sweeper, Welch's Grape Juice, Jell-O, Cream of Wheat, Heinz, Quaker Oats, Colgate's Dental Powder, Stearn & Foster Mattresses, Vaseline, and of course . . .

Ivory Soap



and Coca-Cola



There were ads for this product in almost every issue, which really surprised me.  I guess I didn't realize that Chiclets had been around so long.


But the most interesting ads are for products from the time that we would never use today or for products that have changed drastically since 1906.  Take this asbestos table cover for instance:



It will protect your table's finish from hot dishes - but it will also cause cancer.  Here are some ads for products to deal with personal hygiene issues that you know existed, but the women just look so ladylike in their elaborate dresses that I tend not to think about things like body odor, underarm sweat, and toilets when I look at them.



The ads I find most entertaining, by far, are for beauty products.  These ads abound - especially ads for various types of corsets to fit every shape and size.




These color ads feature corsets for slender and full figures and also the Reduso, which "is a boon to large women--the ideal garment for over-developed figures requiring special restraint."



Finally, I'd like to share the most unique product advertised in The Delineator from the year of 1906.

 
Apparently "Vibratory Massage" had all sorts of health benefits.  In the second ad, they seem to be suggesting that it can improve the bust.  And if used in conjunction with this massage cream, one seems sure to eliminate the "bane of the plump woman" - the double chin, an unnatural condition caused by "loose skin, sagging flesh, and flabby muscles."


In my next post, I'll focus on the fashions of 1906 and some of the interesting features from The Delineator that year.